RUN

I have been talking like a saint in my last post. I hate saints. Its time to get a bit nasty. Its not a depressing post, I can assure you that.

Just imagine you land up in a small dusty town early in the morning, just looking around sipping a cup of tea, a glass of chhaaya actually and you see this poor guy





oooh ! looks like a football player, missed the ball missed the goal, perhaps kicked the goal post instead, in sheer frustration





OWEE ! what is this ? another frustrated footballer ? poor chap This looks serious, must have kicked the goal post repeatedly or perhaps kicked the goal post hard to make it bigger. The goals seem too small for these guys





dear o dear ! this must be their captain, What is happening here ? this looks more serious, must be a pretty bad football team. You walk a little further look around





I don't believe this, you say,
must be their coach, the crowd perhaps ran in to the field after having lost a match and bashed up every body. broke their legs and hammered the coach
This is India, such things happen here.
Clive Lloyed's west Indies team defeated India at Calcutta, the crowd burnt the stadium.
This is India, believe me such things happen here.





OOOH WHATOO ?? The crowd broke the arm of the team manager too ? This is too much






another one ?





Aha ! karate ??





one more karate ? there must be a karate institute here, and they have a pretty bad instructor





This one looks pretty mischievous, must have done something. some big mischief.







oh No ! poor thing, so sweet she is, now what she would have done ? You are watching all this within ten minutes of your landing in this place. You begin to feel a bit uneasy now




you think of Simon and Garkunkle song, oh ! this is not good, what's wrong with this place ?
why is every other person is in bandages, have they taken a loan from the same loan shark ?
Is this place ruled by thugs ? Don't they have law in this place ? What is happening here ?







You what ? You get bashed up and come here ? You see such boards everywhere





No no no ! oh my God ! they have not spared even a poor child ?? let me run let me run away from lawless town... before some body breaks my bones..... you get up and run towards the bus station.

wait wait, don't run.....sit down, please sit down, take a deep breath, one more one more... yes yes.... take deep breath, please don't panic. Relax.... relax

what ? Relax ? how can I relax in a place where every other person is covered in bangades ?

You are in a place called PUTTUR in Andhra Pradesh..... People come here from all over south and north with broken bones. This place is special. Very unique.

PUTTUR pronounded pu like pu......... TTUR like you pronounce three or throw. Puttur.....Its not pronounced like Putter of golf
So you are in Puttur now. They have a unique herbal treatment for mending broken bones, even the most complex fractures and other bone problems. They have been doing this for generations. So I walked in to one such SHOP... yes it is a shop not a clinic. Found a lady there
she asked WHAT ?
Got scared and said nothing nothing, just walked in. I stepped out.
So there are Ladies shops where ladies do the repair job on ladies. so when my wife kicks me and kicks the refregerator I know where to take her. I walked into one such SHOP





They were thrilled to have me, very nice people offered me coffee which I gratefully accepted.
Very professional at their job. they let me take pictures, very kind of them. Thank you.







They actually are the descendants of one family, All the ' bone setters ' as they call themselves are related to each other, its been going on for generation, this must be 20th generation perhaps or more, not sure. You can see the herbal paste they apply in the plate







They grind the herb add some oil, yolk of an egg, its a family secret, make it in to a paste. normally they don't let you take picture of the herb but Mr. Raju is a very kind man, he let me take a picture of the herb.








They are Raju Brothers. educated people, as you can see from the board. Very good treatment
They have hundred percent success rate. Believe me, no nuts bolts rods. But you have to strictly follow their instructions, there are some diet restrictions too. I have seen people getting cured. Most of my class mates used to go there for fractures while I was at school. I never had to go there myself.
I am a walking disaster, I have broken other things but not myself. Three kilometers away at Islapuram, there is a hospital where same treatment is given free of charge. And there is a CHATTRAM, a hostel where people stay for free, this is run by Tirupati temple Charities.






Took an early morning train To Puttur, the coach was full of pilgrims going to Tirupati temple.
Had a window seat. Fare is 37 rupees, ticket says 115 kilometers. For less than a dollar I find myself in a place where people speak a language I don't understand. As you can see from the map, I have crossed the state border. They speak Telegu. You can well imagine how difficult it is to run this country. This country infact runs by itself.





There were some ladies sitting opposite, they kept on eating, they brought lot of eats, a big family going on a pilgrimage.

They don't ask ' would you like to have some grapes ?
I would respectfully refuse as I will never eat grapes which have not been washed thoroughly.

No.... This was not happening

The ladies pick up a big bunch of grapes and thrust it on my hand and say EAT
I ate.
They kept on thrusting things on me and I kept on munching things happily. They gave me no options.
How sweet of them ! I never cared about unwashed grapes. Its all in the mind and the attitude. This was given with love.
I did not get sick. If I worry too much about eating unwashed grapes I WILL get sick. I am fine.





I was kicking myself for not offering them anything. There was a little girl in their family perhaps her grand daughter, not in the picture as she was sleeping most of the time. I normally carry biscuits and sweets for farmers and tribal kids. Since it was a short distance travel I did not carry anything.




I wanted to buy this cheap jewelry, the lady said, you men don't know how to buy and what to buy, she is bargaining for me saying she will pay only five rupees. I really don't mind getting cheated by ten or twenty rupees by there poor sellers, I waste a lot of money on other things. I bought four for my niece. some thin beads necklace, 5 rupees each, less than 50 cents for four pieces of jewelry.

I got off at Puttur, and the train started moving, I waved good bye to them, walking on the platform as I was groping for the ticket in the front pocket of my camera bag, I found one big fat roll of DALLAS sweets, which I bought in Mysore last month. By this time the train picked up speed, I ran after the train pushing some people, got to their window panting for breath, and gave the roll of sweets to their little grand daughter. hahaha ! I can still run very fast.
All my love

Blunt Knife

Wildpic

TIRNELLI TEMPLE - WYNAD KERALA

A blog friend of mine is not well, she is in pain. She has endured a lot of mental suffering in her life and she had the courage to come out of it. Please pray for her. This post is for her well being.
I have no faith, I don't pray, but I wish her a speedy recovery.






The picture above is Tirnelli Temple, surrounded by hills and forest. Ideal location for a place of worship. This temple has a unique significance. Some pictures were taken last year. This time I went with my friend of nearly 40 years, very dear and close friend Asokan.





This trip was not planned, it just happened. We wanted to go to some villages in Karnataka.
Due to disturbances around Mysore area we decided to go to the neighbouring state of Kerala.





Asokan joined me from Bangalore.
Chennai - Bangalore - Mysore - Mandavadi - Tirnelli Temple.








This is very close to my native place of Coorg. You can go by train upto Mysore, then by bus to either Kalpetta (very good road) or to Manandavady ( spine breaking road ) We went to Manandavady from Mysore rattling our bones.








Though completely lacking in devotion, I love going to this temple, alone for the first time, 2nd time with Nirmal and my third, this time with Asokan. Its a pleasant feeling. I love walking around the temple and in the surrounding forest, pretty safe to walk.
Asokan taking a picture in the neighbouring forest.











There is a small and beautiful stream flowing through the forest. This is the unique and most pleasant feature of this temple.

This is called Papanashni ( e2dees, please correct me )
Papa, paap (in hindi) Paavam In Tamil is sin. Nashini is perhaps washing away. Papa nashini is washing away the sins.








People take a dip in this stream to wash away their sins. It is a ritual followed by a puja which is the most pleasant to watch, perhaps more pleasant to perform.








A family has gathered here to wash away their sins and ask for god's forgivance.
Actually I did not know what was happening. Asokan was following the proceedings and explained it to me.
This is how it goes.
There is a pujari (priest) conducting the rituals.
God please forgive our sins, then they wash away the sins of the family, friends, their neighbours and they ask God to forgive the sins of all human beings of this world and pray for the well being of all of us.
They offer food to nature (birds eat it)

All for the well being of you and me. It was very touching.








There are people out there who pray for you. You may not know them.
I'll keep my personal views aside.
The prayer for the well being of all human beings may or may not work.
But the sincerity, seriousness and utmost devotion behind such a prayer is overwhelming. I was touched. These people take the trouble of going to such a remote temple to pray for all of us.
I will not laugh at such rituals in future.
Here Asokan is chatting with the pujari.







This pujari is 84 years old and still very healthy. I look like his father, 59 I am. As usual I showed him the picture on the small camera screen. Its OK, he said and smiled.





well ! I did not take a dip in the stream but dipped my finger and washed away all the sins my finger committed.
I'll take you there one day.
please pray for my friend
We are not alone, the prayers of unknown people are with us.
Each one of you sincerely wants peace and harmony and prosperity of all living beings of this world.
All my love

Blunt Knife
Wildpic

THEYYAM 2007

This is not a woman. a male enacting a female god

Had to cut short my trip to attend my dear and very close friend Jawahar's engagement colse to a neat town called Cuddalure, 200 Kms south of my city of Chennai., had to rush from west coast to east coast. On my way up, Chennai - Bangalore - Mysore and crossing the western ghats by bus to Cannanore. Bus was comfortable but how can I sleep when the bus is tossing me up every 2 minutes, through out the journey I was suspended in air. The road is in very bad condition from past 3 years. Why ? I don't know. Twice my head banged against the baggage loft of the bus, it tossed me up so high. I am thin but not that thin.








Met my friend Unni, who made me feel at home. These rituals take place early in the morning. I missed the previous night's performances as the train was late by 6 hours.






What the man splashing is supposed to be blood, thankfully it is coloured water. I was a bit upset watching some gory rituals early in the morning. I have not taken those pictures since children read this blog. I was told that there were lot more gruesome and gory rituals with animal sacrifices in the past, but they have all gone out of practice. Good to hear that. Hope what remains will be abandoned soon. Rest of the rituals and performances were all pleasant and very exciting to watch.










They don't enact gods. They are not performing roles of different gods, THEY ARE GODS, and are treated as such, seriously. People go seek their blessings, some tell their problems to gods and gods tell them that good days will come. Seriously. It was really good to watch gods offering advise to those who seek, as gods and not as actors or performers. The godess here is a post man in his daily life. Believe me children are not afraid, they too seek blessings, there is absolutely no element of fear.








I thought the drummers beat the drums as they please. They go according to a tight format with mathematical accuracy.










This takes place in an old Tharavad family house. Here's my friend Unni showing me around. Its huge. You will get lost in the place, I am showing only one side of the place.





I'll tell you about Tharvad family traditions later in a post. Here THEYYAM is conducted every year with contributions from all the members of the family, running into hundreds of thousands of rupees. and there is absolutely no monetory gain for the family. They do it with devotion and as service to the local people. All are invited. Food is free. The whole atmosphere is very pleasant and friendly.






It takes hours and hours for them to prepare. Its a team work, each one having very specific task.












The colours used are vegetable dyes, no chemicals. they patiently wait, here the man is making what comes as a head gear.







People wait, there is continuous beating of drums as the night descends. and the gods appear.


































Gods appear one by one, There were friendly people telling me all the names of the gods and all the details which I was promptly forgetting. I'll ask Sindu and Unni for the information. the atmosphere was electric. serious crowd, very quiet, they couldn't defeat the sound of the drums any way. It was enough to keep every one awake right through the night.









Then suddenly this happens.
I was half asleep when this god appeard. I got up to take a picture. He approached me. Probably thought that I have problems to place before him. He gave me flowers. I was looking at the flowers in my hands. Camera in the other hand. He smiled at me. Except for a lady and a child there was no one around as the crowd was with other gods. Suddenly the crowd abandoned other gods and gathered around me. I became nervous. They wanted to hear what this god is telling me or perhaps they thought i may place some unique problems before this god. i had none. I just kept quiet and kept smiling. All were looking at me. The god predicted my future.
All pleasant stuff, all in Malayalam, Yes I could follow what he was saying. My good days will come. He misfired only once as he talked about my Bhaari and Kuttiyol ( my wife and kids ) I have none. He was blessing them. Good. I took the blessing for my sister and my nephew and niece. I did not correct him nor did I tell him what I think of his blessings . Poor chap. I was patiently listening nodding my coconut in total appreciation. It was indeed very sweet of him to bless me and my family without asking. Then I took this picture and showed him the picture on the small screen. Ha, he smiled and touched my shoulder. I did not argue with him like I do with gurus and swamies, please believe me. there was mutual respect.






























This is the grand finale
Comes towards very early in the morning.
the head gear is 30 feet tall
the crowd waits for him
A demon god or slayer of demons, it was simply spectacular, and worth waiting for the whole night.
Here he comes. Can't get near him, he is surrounded by fire, lit torches tied all aound him.




I am desperate to see his face and can't go near him, Crowd and fire all around him. My train was leaving in an hour's time and I was getting a free ride to the railway station 20 KMs away with Unni's uncle's family, very kind of them. If I miss the train I miss the engagement of my friend Jawahar. I am restless as the movements of the demon god are very slow. He has to walk with such a heavy costume, 30 feet high head gear with burning torches tied all around him.








And finally I get to see his face, pretty scary but magnificiant. Wow ! I could feel the heat, I gently elbowed my way towards him. No way I could go anywhere near him with all the burning torches tied around him. Electric atmosphere. Absolute silence, no drums, then suddenly the drums came alive. My bags were already in the waiting car. I could barely take a few shots and it was time for me to leave.




Unni was with me, his uncle's family was waiting for me. I was overwhelmed. I was still dazed with the unique experience. Just hoping to be there next year perhaps with the members of family, Sindu and Nirmal, half the pictures were taken with his camera, Ranjit and Seema, who are in the US.

Unni, mom and dad, sister Rema took so much care to make me feel at home. How sweet of them. thank you all so much, Unni's little niece Mathangi, very sweet and friendly, took away all my fatigue with her charm and innocence.